SOIL PREPARATION
Soil condition
is important to maintaining a healthy organic garden. The soil should be free of
all vegetation, and that includes the current years weed crop, as well
as the remains of last year’s vegetable crop. The soil should have the
correct pH and be light, sweet, and full of humus so that there is
proper drainage and plenty of air available to the roots. Also, the
soil should be free of insects, weeds,
and remnants of disease.
SOIL
TESTING.
The only way to be sure of the condition of your soil is by having a
laboratory run a soil test. The test is easy to do and often can be
done free of charge. In the U.S. exact information on how to test your
soil can be obtained from the U.S. Department of Agriculture (USDA) or
the Cooperative Extension Service with offices in most U.S. counties.
The soil test is essential
in maintaining a productive organic garden. It provides the
information needed to adjust the soil elements such as pH and mineral
content.
SOIL pH.
The pH
scale divides the range of alkaline and acid into 14 points. Halfway is
7, and that is neutral. Below 7 is acid and above 7 is alkaline. Most
plants do best when the pH is between 6.2 and 6.8 or slightly on the
acid side.
THE pH GROW
ZONE

ADJUSTING ACID SOIL.
Sandy soils are
naturally acid. Plants grown in soil that is too acid are stunted,
small, poor producers, and susceptible to insects and disease.
TREATMENTS FOR
CORRECTING ACID SOIL
-
LIMESTONE: 5 pounds of
ground limestone per 100 square feet will raise the pH about 1
point.
-
COMPOST:
Compost is a
good way to adjust pH because it works on both acid and alkaline
soils.
-
WOOD
ASH: Wood ash
raises the pH and provides potash, which is an essential plant
nutrient.
ADJUSTING
ALKALINE SOIL.
Clay soils
are typically alkaline. Plants grown in soil that is too alkaline
become stunted, pale, and unhealthy.
TREATMENTS FOR
CORRECTING ALKALINE SOIL
-
COMPOST: Compost is a
good way to adjust pH because it works on both acid and alkaline
soil. Work a generous amount of compost into the soil to a depth of
10-12 inches.
-
GREEN
MANURE: Plow
under a green crop (called green manure) such a wheat or rye. Green
manure enriches the soil and helps eliminate soil-borne diseases.
Plant crops after the decay is complete, which is about 6 weeks
during warm weather.
-
PEAT
MOSS: Peat Moss
is acid and therefore can be used to lower the pH. Use 50 pounds
per 1000 square feet to lower the soil pH by 1 point.
COMPOST PREPARATION.
Compost is
decomposed organic material. Any organic material can be used,
including kitchen scraps, lawn clippings, leaves, hay, weeds, and
manure. Meat scraps and manure from carnivores such as dogs and cats
should not be added to the compost pile.
Although there is a great
variety of compost containers and supplies available, compost is best
when piled out in the open with no additives, because it will breakdown
more slowly and end up with a stronger friendly flora which ends up making
healthier soil. Water when necessary to keep the pile moist. Turn the
compost completely over 3 or 4 times during the decomposition period.
Compost is finished when it turns a rich, dark color and has a sweet
smell. Composting can take from 6 weeks to 8 months, depending on
additives and manure content. The more manure and green vegetation in
the pile the faster the decomposition. Compost can be worked into the
soil or used as mulch.
SOIL PASTEURIZATION.
Soil
pasteurization can be accomplished by using a procedure know as Soil
Solarization. Solarization rids the soil of garden pests such as
bacteria, fungi, insects, and weeds. After solarization the soil is
completely sterile. Solarization must be done during several weeks of
warm weather.
PROCEDURE
FOR SOLARIZING THE SOIL
-
PREPARE SOIL: Remove
all debris and rake the plot smooth.
-
SOAK
SOIL: Soak the
soil with water for several hours.
-
COVER
WITH PLASTIC:
Cover with a clear plastic sheet—do not use black plastic. Overlap
edges by 1-2 feet. Cover edges with soil to seal in moisture.
-
PASTEURIZE THE SOIL:
Leave plot covered for 6 weeks. Sunlight shines through the
clear plastic and heats the soil. After pasteurization the
soil is
ready for planting preparation.
GARDEN
SANITATION.
At the end of
the growing season, old plants should be cleared away and either
composted or burned. Plants left in the garden after the growing season
is over become a harbor for insects and disease. Diseased plants should
be burned or composted to prevent re-infection of the soil with the same
disease.
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